TOULON
Well what a magnificent, or manifique as the Chron put it, time down in Toulon last week and no that was not just limited to events on the pitch. Beforehand it all looked like it was going to pan out very differently. I am sure I was not alone in travelling south with a slight trepidation on exactly what we were going to find. Various guide books and online sources had described Toulon as a place you had to be wary of visiting, even Toulon’s coach Tana Umaga had described it as a tough town the previous week. Warnings had been made on the various Saints message boards in the preceding days about venturing out after dark, though to be fair you could say the same about some areas of any town, Northampton included. So on Wednesday as my train headed into town I was not quite sure what kind of reception awaited the Saints support. That the mother of all thunderstorms decided to drop her load at the time I arrived just added to the expected gloom as I trudged through flooded streets to my hotel. Just what had we let ourselves in for?
I need not have worried, Thursday dawned, the Mediterranean sun shone in all its glory but more importantly so did the people of Toulon. By the end of the day it was arguable who gave out the greater warmth that sun or the people, I would say the townsfolk won hands down. It just goes to show that you should not rely on first impressions nor believe everything you read, go find out for yourself, because by the end of the weekend I think I found Toulon to be about the most hospitable rugby place I have visited. The sunshine, the waterfront and the excellent hidden away beaches might make the setting but it was the people of Toulon, especially the RCT supporters who made the occasion. I know that many who went will be returning again.
As the game approached all along the various waterfront bars, just a stones throw from the Stade Mayol, were filling with the Gold, Black and Green of the estimated 600+ Saints support and a real party atmosphere was building. Of course we do it for the love of it but to take this number away on a Thursday night down to deepest France is some feat and I know the locals were impressed with the numbers, our behaviour, friendliness and how we got behind the team. I wrote two weeks ago about entering a cauldron at the Mayol, I think on the night we gave as good as we got but if we draw them again pray it is a Saturday when I think we’ll see the stadium at its hottest.
After having the hand of friendship offered online by Romain an RCT support a couple of us ventured off before kickoff to find the Bar Banane the base for one of Toulon supporters groups, Les Fadas. Again not quite knowing what to expect to say we were overwhelmed by the reception we got was somewhat of an understatement. For the next couple of hours it was virtually impossible to buy a drink in return as glass after glass of Pastis was thrust into our hands. Added to that I am sure I shook more hands than either McCain or Obama ever will in their election campaigns. As more Saints supporters arrived they were treated in the same manner, who says the English and French don’t get on? Better was to come as Mathias, whom some of you will have seen on television on the microphone leading the Pilou Pilou chant, presented a handful of us with Les Fadas ‘Pilou’ shirts.
Despite the defeat the après match party was just as lively as even more Saints supporters joined the throng and despite it being a working day in the morning for most of the locals, the revelry went on into the early hours.
We returned on the Friday to repay their kindness with a signed Saints shirt for the bar and to show how much these guys have rugby and especially Toulon ingrained in them they were again watching the game on television. However only as far as Toulon taking a 3-0 lead then everything was thrown skywards as everyone danced out into the street. After doing this two or three times they relented and finally let us watch us take the lead only for them to start cheering for us instead, cue more dancing in the street. The highlight of the night though was the aforementioned Mathias’s impression of Toulons rather oversized replacement prop. It is amazing what you can do with some bar towels, a rugby ball and a little floor space. So thanks to Romain, Mathias and all at the Bar Banane they really made it for a lot of Saints supporters and I hope we can repay that kindness some day and if any of you are looking for somewhere to visit you can do far, far worse than Toulon. I’ll be back.
YES THERE WAS EVEN A GAME
And away from all the revelry there was even a game of rugby. Slightly disconcerting before the game one of the RCT supporters mentioned that the “game is of no consequence to us and Saints will score sixty tonight”. I know Nostadamus was born just down the road but this guy was pretty much on the button but that is as maybe as you can only play what is in front of you and the lads certainly stepped up to the plate. To score 50 points away from home, especially in France has to be applauded whatever the opposition. To give Toulon some credit they had some youngsters given their first chances at this level and they never gave up the ghost even when heavily down. In the bar afterwards, gracious in defeat, the talk from the RCT supporters was about Chris Ashton and StephenMyler and how come they had not heard of them before. One of the clubs scrumhalfs, also in the bar, praised Ben Foden and said how he would love to play behind a pack like ours. Considering some of the luminaries at Toulon, praise indeed.
MONTPELLIER
Purely by coincidence I am sitting writing this on the Place de Comedie in Montpellier (who does he think he is, Alan Whicker, I hear you say). Montpellier are somewhat of a second team for me, i’ve been to see them play a few times and it is my fourth visit here in little over a year in just about my favourite part of the world. Come the away leg in January I will be boring you all to tears about the place but first up we entertain the French side at the Gardens this Saturday. Montpellier Herault RC to give them their full name have slowly but surely risen through the ranks of French rugby over the last few years. With a move to their spanking new Stade Yves du Manoir, by far the best club ground in Europe, and just missing out on Heineken rugby by a couple of points last term they appear to be on the verge of something big and could be challenging the big five in France in the not too distant future. They have some players of note, people may talk of Justin Marshall but Julien Tomas is in my mind the better scrumhalf and if he links up with Francois Trinh-Duc at flyhalf, though Trinh-Duc played fullback last week, they could cause us problems. The most interesting clash though could be in the back row if MHRC select from strength with the likes of Fulgence Ouedraogo and Louis Picamoles it could be a busy night for a lads. A full strength Montpellier could push us close but I am taking home advantage and the usual French sides inability to travel to be the deciding factor and us to march on in Europe.
SAINTS WITH HEART
Much as I have enjoyed my time here in France, tomorrow it is time to return home, not only for Saturdays game against Montpellier but for the little matter of walking 17 miles to the Gardens first in the seventh Saints with Heart walk in aid of the British Heart Foundation. If you have not sponsored anyone yet just look out for the seven of hearts T-shirts on Saturday at the game where those still walking will be glad to take your money off you. Better still fill those pockets with change for the bucket shake. Of course in the present climate money is tight but it is a worthwhile cause and every little helps.
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