By Darraghgirl
July 28 2014

Clermont Ferrand is one of France’s oldest cities. It sits on the plain of Limagne in the Massif Central squeezed between a major industrial area and a chain of volcanoes. It is the capital of the Puy-du-Dome Department, named after the dormant (we hope) Volcano which overlooks the city.

According to Pepin (not sure if that’s Pepin the Short or Pepin the Brief) the city did not acquire the name Clermont until the 8^th century. Before that time it was called (variously) Augusto-Nementum (the sacred forest of Augustus), Civitas Avernum (tribal capital of the Auvergne) and all sorts of other unpronounceable Latin names. It was a big city in Roman Gaul and was birthplace of Vercingetorix (whose statue stands in the town square) a noted Arveni Chieftan who pushed back the Romans at the Battle of Gergovia and later headed the unified Gallic resistance to Julius Caesar. (Needless to say, he came to a sticky end 8 years later when he was captured at the battle of Alesia, paraded through Rome and executed). Whatever, the town of “Avernum” sat at the bottom of a hill which was protected by a castle called Clare Montem which stood on the hill behind it. The inhabitants got fed up with being pillaged and plundered so they withdrew to the safety of the castle and eventually the new town of Clairmont arose.

The Visigoths and the Vikings both paid Clairmont a visit as did the Normans and the Crusades (Pope Urban II preached the Crusade there in 1095 at the Second Council of Clermont – by this time they’d learned to spell!) A cathedral was built here with one of its bishops having the wonderful name of Saint Hilarius. (Bet he was a laugh a minute! – sorry!) Hence Clermont was referred to as an episcopal city (belonging to the bishop) whereas nearby Montferrand was founded on a mound next door by the local Countess who fell out with the Bishop (surely not Hilarius) and was therefore a Commital City (belonging to a count). While Clermont danced to the tune of Catholicism, Montferrand became a democracy and prospered. It built strong defences which were never breached. It was popular with the rich. It even had its own Mint. Its Court of Aids was answerably only to Parliament. But with success came jealousy. Nearby Clermont appealed to the king, Louis XIII who was probably feeling a bit hard up and saw something in it for himself. So, as Kings do, he got Richelieu to forcibly join the cities of Clermont and Montferrand by the Edict of Troyes in 1630 and no doubt added much of their combined wealth to his dwindling coffers. The residents of Montferrand weren’t happy. Many of their richer citizens moved to Clermont leaving Montferrand to the disgruntled farmers and wine growers (or white mules, “mulets blanc”). Over the last century, Montferrand became engulfed in industrial premises, mainly Michelin, and finally the 2 towns were physically united.

Clermont and Montferrand both retain their unique identities. Clermont is a beautiful old city full of narrow cobbled streets which open into delightful squares. On a hill in the City Centre is the Cathedral of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, carved from local volcanic rock and rivalled by the pretty Notre Dame du Port Basillica, a Unesco monument. Montferrand is a short trip away on a modern tram system. Substantial parts of the old Ramparts remain and the town is dominated by the Place Marcel Semblat on the site of the old castle. But Clermont Ferrand is the home of Bib (Bibendum) aka the Michelin Man. Michelin, inventors of the removable pneumatic tyre, is once again the world’s largest tyre manufacturer. The factory dominates the City and there is even a gift shop where you can buy your very own “Bib” souvenir.

The arts are well represented here - Clermont hosts a short film festival once a year along with many other music, dance and drama festivals (not alas over the winter!) It hosted the French Grand Prix 4 times between 1965 and 1972 but the circuit was so daunting with such changes in elevation that drivers became ill. It was, however, won by the legendary Jim Clark, Jochen Rindt and Jackie Stewart (twice).

It was home to the French scientist Blaise Pascal (who gave his name to the SI unit of pressure), the Michelin brothers Andre and Eduoard and (for the guys) the Actress Audrey Tautou. The Place de Jade has plenty of shopping and the nearby streets are full of excellent restaurants. The Puy du Dome volcano dominates the town and it is quite an easy walk/cycle to the top (or drive if you feel lazy) – it was even part of the Tour de France a few years back - with excellent views over the surrounding countryside and the 80 volcanos in the area. If you like theme parks with a difference, Vulcania, a volcano park, is just up the road.

The local countryside is beautiful. There is a local thermal springs and ski-resort at Mont Dore (possibilities if the game is in January!) where the rivers Dore and Dogne unite to form – you guessed – the Dordogne and just south is another ski resort Super Besse, on the slopes of Puy de Sancy, the highest peak in the Massif Central. Being French, the local fare is generally excellent (although I wasn’t that keen on Truffade, the Clermont delicacy, a sort of gloopy potato pancake) and the Auvergne is famous for cheeses (try Saint-nectaire, Cantal or Salers). Local wines are little known but very acceptable such as Cotes d’Auvergne, Saint-Pourcain and Cotes du Forez. And everywhere you go, towns, villages, remote homesteads, garages, hotels, ski resorts, you will find the yellow and blue of “ASM” .

As you might expect, being Michelin Country, there are 5 Michelin starred restaurants in Clermont Ferrand. (Incidentally if you wondered how a couple of tyre manufacturers got in to gastronomy, the first Michelin guide, which contained maps, hotels, petrol stations and useful information about changing tyres, was produced in 1900 and was given away to French motorists to encourage them to travel – and presumably need to buy more tyres! Having found the book propping up the end of mechanic’s bench, the Michelin brothers decided to charge for it and to include restaurants. In 1926 they awarded a single star to fine dining establishments and in 1935 the hierarchy of stars was developed:- 1 star “a good restaurant in its category”, 2 stars “worth a detour”, 3 stars “worth a special journey” thus still keeping the link with travelling and tyres!)

Clermont Ferrand is definitely worth a visit. It’s a pain to get to. With the exception of Amsterdam, the airport appears confined to internal flights apart from the summer (when you can also fly to Brussels, Porto, Ajaccio, Figari and, wait for it, Southampton! But only once a week!) - I think we flew to Lyons and hired a car. It is also reachable by Eurostar with a change in Paris.

And finally, Clermont Ferrand is twinned with SALFORD so our Odyssey has come full circle!!!!

Darraghgirl at the summit of Puy du Dome. The sun doesn't always shine!

2014-15 European Odyssey PART 3 Clermont Ferrand

Discussion started by TheSaracens.com , 28/07/2014 17:11

TheSaracens.com
28/07/2014 17:11

Final part of the Tour



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2014:08:25:09:43:55 by Darraghgirl.

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To Mega Therion
30/07/2014 09:10

Good stuff. The first trip to ASM on Eurostar in 2004 is right up there with the most infamous.


Who removed my H.R. Giger picture?

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AlanE
31/07/2014 14:11

We read about Pepin the Short years ago when we were staying in Brittany. He was described as Pepin the Short of the Franks.

Oh happy days; poor but happy. Pepin wasn't the only one who was short of the francs.

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PhillFez
01/08/2014 16:19

Happy memories indeed. Cantal is really good, first discovered that staying in Gites in the Auvergne and glad to reacquaint during the HC visit.
Photos of the visit photos of the game and usual suspects

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King Zak
14/08/2014 22:12

Free the Clermont six!!

Nous sommes l'armée noir et rouge !

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